Wine Monthly Links
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| Grape: |
Merlot |
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Rich, earthy, with a bell pepper note. |
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So often you hear the words 'I like Merlot' when people are asked what red wine they like. Often, these are the same people who also say 'I like Chardonnay' in response to their favorite white wine. But why is it that so many people enjoy Merlot?
First of all, Merlot has become one of, if not the, most popular red wines in the USA. Perhaps because it is easier to pronounce than Cabernet Sauvignon, and likely because it is softer, less acidic, and easier to drink than Cabernet and many other red wines. Whatever the reasons, these days Merlot is being mass-produced by just about everyone who has a winery, in response to this sudden demand for the wine. As a result, there is a lot of Merlot on the market---particularly in the sub-$10 range---that is of average, consistent quality; and a lot of different-branded Merlots that taste almost exactly the same. (Don’t get me wrong---I advocate wines under ten bucks---but in this case its worth exploring beyond that price range.) The wine marketing capital of the world, California, has had particular success in producing oaky, smooth, good-swilling Merlot that appeals to a wide audience. If that’s the Merlot you like, great. However, be aware that most of California makes an unspectacular Merlot, and there are more interesting and intense examples to be found in other areas of the world.
Traditionally, Merlot is the most widely planted grape in Bordeaux, and is particularly associated with the great wines of Pomerol and St.-Emilion (two areas within Bordeaux). Despite that, Merlot is not always used as the only grape in a Bordeaux wine; in fact it is used more often in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, to result in wines that have wonderful character, great balance, and good longevity. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon provides big tannins, acidity, and earthiness, Merlot balances Bordeaux wine with peppery, lush, plump fruit character. (There are some California producers, particularly in the Stag’s Leap District and Russian River Valley, that are emulating the Bordeaux makers and using Merlot in the same way, blending with Cabernet Sauvignon to create great red wines.) In addition to Bordeaux, Merlot is also successfully grown and produced as a varietal wine in many other areas of France, particularly in the Languedoc-Roussillon---where you’ll find excellent bargains for $7-15.
Besides being a perfect complement in blends with Cabernet, Merlot is also an easier grape to cultivate, as it buds, flowers, and ripens at least a week before Cabernet Sauvignon, and it requires less warmth. In fact, a hot, dry summer---perfect conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon---is detrimental to the Merlot grape, which has a better chance fully developing in damp, cool soil. Not surprisingly, there are many cooler, northern climates where Merlot grows very well. For example, the regions of Friuli, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Veneto in northern Italy produce some very interesting examples of Merlot (where it grows next to Cabernet Franc, a kissing cousin to Cabernet Sauvignon). The grape is also produced successfully in Switzerland, Slovenia, Hungary, Romania, Russia, and Moldova---believe it or not. And I’ve tasted Merlots with good character from New Zealand and South Africa as well. So you have quite a selection of areas to try Merlot from.
As mentioned before, most California Merlot is average at best, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find good Merlot from other areas of the USA. Washington state is capable of producing good Merlot, especially from Columbia Valley. Long Island (New York) also has potential for making excellent Merlot wine, so it’s worth taking a look at examples from there also.
So what’s the bottom line? Should you stop drinking Merlot from California? Absolutely not. But if you say you like Merlot, but have only tried those from California, consider a stroll around the wine shop and pick up one from France, or Italy, or one of the other areas mentioned above. You may find enjoyment of Merlot in a whole new way.
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